New Mexico red chile sauce

New Mexico Red Chile Sauce: Pods, Powder, or Roasted

New Mexico red chile sauce starts one of three ways, and the choice matters more than anything you do afterward: dried pods, ground powder, or already roasted red chile. They produce three genuinely different sauces, and almost nobody tells you that before you're standing in the aisle.

Dried pods give you the deep, toasted, slightly bitter sauce that shows up at Christmas dinner. Powder is fast and gets you close. Roasted red chile out of a jar is the quickest of the three and it tastes noticeably different, because the chile was roasted fresh rather than dried in the sun.

This page has the recipe from a jar, which takes about thirty five minutes, and an honest account of when you should go get pods instead.

Pods, powder, or roasted

Starting from
Dried whole pods
Time
45 to 60 min, plus soaking
Tastes like
Deepest. Toasty, faintly bitter, sweet underneath
Worth it when
Holidays, posole, a pot of enchiladas you care about
Starting from
Ground powder
Time
25 to 30 min
Tastes like
Close to pods, slightly flatter, smoother texture
Worth it when
You want traditional flavor on a weeknight
Starting from
Roasted red chile from a jar
Time
35 min
Tastes like
Brighter and rounder. Roasted rather than sun dried, and chunkier
Worth it when
You want red chile flavor without hunting for good pods

The difference between the first two and the third isn't quality, it's process. A dried pod concentrates as it dries and toasts, which is where the slight bitterness and the depth come from, while flame roasted red chile never dries at all. It gets char instead, so the sauce lands brighter and a little sweeter.

Both of them are red chile, they aren't interchangeable, and if you grew up on one you'll notice the other immediately.

The recipe

New Mexico Red Chile Sauce

  • Yield2 to 3 cups
  • Prep10 minutes
  • Cook25 minutes
  • Start fromRoasted red chile

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 cups flame roasted Hatch red chile, Medium or Hot
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
  • 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup vegetable or chicken stock
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

  1. Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook one minute more.
  2. Stir in the flour and cook one minute, then add the stock in a slow stream, whisking constantly so it doesn't lump.
  3. Put the red chile and salt in a blender and blend until smooth.
  4. Add the blended chile to the pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer about 15 minutes, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon and still drip off.
  5. Taste, salt again if it needs it, and pour it into a bowl or a jar.

The flour is optional, and traditionalists leave it out. One teaspoon in this quantity is doing very little, and the sauce will thicken on its own with five more minutes of simmering. New Mexico's own published red chile sauce uses no flour at all and reduces instead, so skip it if you want the sauce gluten free, or if you want a cleaner chile flavor with nothing standing in front of it.

You can also skip the blender if you want it chunky. Straight out of the jar it's already chopped, and plenty of people prefer red chile you can see, so blending is a texture decision rather than a correctness one. I'm on the chunky side of that argument myself, at least for enchiladas, where a little texture under the cheese is the whole point!

One 16 oz jar is roughly two cups, so this recipe uses about three quarters of one.

If you want the traditional one

Here's the part a chile company isn't supposed to say. If you're making red for a holiday table, go buy dried pods.

The version that tastes like your grandmother's is built from whole dried New Mexican pods, toasted, seeded, soaked and blended. New Mexico's published recipe uses 8 ounces of dried pods, roughly 20 to 25 of them, blended with 4 cups of stock and simmered with onion, garlic and Mexican oregano into about 4 cups of sauce, with no flour anywhere in it.

It takes an hour and your blender will need a real cleaning afterward. It's worth doing once or twice a year, and our jar isn't a substitute for it. What our jar is good for is the other fifty weeks, when you want red chile on your eggs on a Tuesday and you're not about to toast twenty five pods to get there.

Buy pods that are still pliable rather than brittle, deep red rather than brown, and unbroken. A pod that snaps has been sitting around too long.

Storing dried chile and powder

This is the part nobody publishes, and it explains why your chile powder tastes like nothing by March.

Per NMSU Guide H-236 on postharvest handling of dehydrated chiles:

  • Store it at 32 to 41°F, in the dark, which means the refrigerator rather than the cabinet above the stove. Color loss accelerates as temperature rises.
  • Ground chile loses color faster than whole pods do. Commercial processors hold chile as flakes and grind it last for exactly that reason, so if you have the choice, buy pods and grind what you need.
  • Light and oxygen bleach the pigment, so an airtight opaque container beats a clear jar on the counter every time.
  • Powder taken out of cold storage can lose color quickly, so take out what you need and put the rest straight back.

Color isn't only cosmetic here. The pigments that fade are carotenoids, and a chile powder that has gone brown has lost flavor along with the color. If yours is dull and tastes like dust, it wasn't stored cold and dark.

Keeping the sauce

In the refrigerator it keeps 3 to 4 days, covered and cold within two hours of cooking, which is USDA guidance for cooked leftovers. Some published recipes say up to six days. We use the shorter figure, and if you're near the edge, freeze it rather than guess.

In the freezer it keeps several months. There's no dairy in it, so it freezes and thaws cleanly. Freeze it flat in a bag, or in half cup portions so you can thaw exactly what one plate needs, and remember that freezing doesn't reset the refrigerator clock, so freeze it while it's fresh rather than on day three.

It thickens cold and loosens when you warm it, so judge the consistency hot rather than straight out of the fridge.

Fixing a sauce that went wrong

It came out bitter

If you started from pods, they scorched during toasting. Dried chile goes from toasted to burnt in seconds and there's no recovering it, so toast lower and pull them the moment they smell fragrant. A little sweetness, a pinch of sugar or a small piece of carrot simmered in, will mask mild bitterness but not real scorch.

It came out thin

Simmer it uncovered for longer. Reduction is the traditional thickener and it also concentrates the flavor, which flour doesn't do.

It tastes raw or harsh

It hasn't simmered long enough. Fifteen minutes is a minimum rather than a target, and red chile sauce keeps improving for a good while past that.

It came out gritty

Those are bits of skin from dried pods, so run it through a sieve. Sauce made from roasted chile doesn't usually have this problem.

It is too hot

Reach for dairy or fat, off the heat. Sour cream, cheese or a spoonful of oil will all do it, while water thins the flavor without doing much about the heat.

What to put it on

Enchiladas come first, stacked or rolled. After that it's huevos rancheros, which is where a batch usually goes on a weekend morning, and rolled tacos, where it works alongside green in the same pan. Posole, burritos, carne adovada and a plate of eggs all take it happily too!

If you want the green half of the pair, the green chile enchilada sauce is built on the same idea from the other pod, and the two of them together are what Christmas means here. Our red and green harvest blend exists for people who'd rather not keep two jars open.

Red also goes places people don't expect it. Red chile brownies and red chile apple pie are both in the archive, and both are more convincing than they sound!

As for the chile itself, our 16 oz jars of flame roasted Hatch red chile come in Medium or Hot, and the ingredient list is Hatch chile, salt, garlic and lime juice with nothing else in it. If you're buying for a kitchen rather than a household, pricing is on the wholesale page, and in New Mexico the store locator shows who stocks us. There's also a printed New Mexico chile cookbook if you'd rather have this on the counter than on a screen.

And if you've got a sack of fresh red pods rather than dried ones, roast them the same way you'd roast green, because red and green are the same plant at different stages.

Common questions

What is New Mexico red chile sauce made of?

Red chile, stock, onion, garlic and salt. Traditionally it starts from dried red pods that are toasted, seeded, soaked and blended, and it can also be made from ground chile powder or from flame roasted red chile.

Is red chile the same as green chile?

They're the same plant at a different stage. Pods left on the vine ripen from green to red and get sweeter and earthier, and the difference in the sauce comes mostly from what happens next, drying and toasting versus roasting.

Do you put flour in New Mexico red chile sauce?

Some cooks do and plenty don't. New Mexico's own published recipe uses none and thickens by reduction instead. A teaspoon adds body, and leaving it out makes the sauce gluten free with a cleaner chile flavor.

Is red chile sauce the same as enchilada sauce?

In New Mexico, yes. Red chile sauce is what goes on enchiladas. Canned "enchilada sauce" sold elsewhere is usually tomato based with chile powder in it, which is a different thing.

How long does red chile sauce last in the fridge?

Three to four days per USDA guidance for cooked leftovers, refrigerated within two hours. Freeze it for longer.

How do I store dried red chile pods and powder?

Keep them cold and dark. NMSU recommends 32 to 41°F away from light, and ground chile loses color and flavor faster than whole pods, so buy pods and grind as needed if you can.

Why did my red chile sauce turn bitter?

The pods scorched during toasting. Dried chile burns in seconds, so toast at lower heat and pull them as soon as they smell fragrant.

Can you freeze red chile sauce?

Yes, and it freezes well because there's no dairy in it. Freeze it flat, or in half cup portions so you thaw only what a plate needs.

The short version

There are three starting points and they give you three different sauces. Dried pods make the deep traditional one, powder makes a faster version of the same thing, and roasted red chile from a jar makes a brighter sauce in thirty five minutes. The flour is optional and traditionalists skip it. The sauce keeps three to four days in the refrigerator and months in the freezer.

For a holiday table, buy pods. For a Tuesday, a batch takes about three quarters of the jar.

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