Green chile chocolate chip cookies

Green Chile Chocolate Chip Cookies

Green chile does something to a chocolate chip cookie that nothing else in the pantry does: it puts a slow warm finish underneath the chocolate, so the cookie tastes like a cookie first and then turns up the heat a second later. A third of a cup goes into a standard batch of about 20, alongside a half teaspoon of cinnamon that ties the two halves together, and the dough doesn't need chilling before it goes in the oven. The one real decision is heat level, and Medium is the one most people should reach for.

They come out of the oven looking like any other chocolate chip cookie, which is part of the fun when you hand one to somebody who didn't ask what was in it. Pecans and semi-sweet chips carry the familiar half, and the chile sits under all of it.

The recipe

Green Chile Chocolate Chip Cookies

  • YieldAbout 20
  • Prep20 minutes
  • Bake11 to 14 minutes
  • Oven350°F

Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup flame roasted Hatch green chile, drained and patted dry
  • 8 tablespoons butter, softened
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
  • 1/2 cup roasted pecans, chopped

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment.
  2. Drain the green chile in a sieve, then spread it on paper towel and press. It should be damp, not wet. This step is not optional.
  3. Beat the butter, granulated sugar and brown sugar in a large bowl until smooth. Add the egg and vanilla and beat until creamy.
  4. Whisk the flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt in a second bowl, then add the dry to the wet and stir until just combined. Stop as soon as the flour disappears.
  5. Stir in the green chile, chocolate chips and pecans.
  6. Roll into balls and place 2 inches apart on the sheet. Bake 11 to 14 minutes, until the edges are browned and the centers still look slightly underdone.
  7. Let them sit on the sheet for 5 minutes before moving them. They finish setting there.

Why chile works with chocolate

This pairing is old. Chocolate and chile were served together in Mesoamerica long before either one reached Europe, and it has lasted that long because it works structurally and not because it's clever.

Chocolate is fatty and slightly bitter, and capsaicin isn't a flavor at all, it's a heat sensation that arrives after the sweetness and then hangs around for a while. So you get a cookie that tastes like a cookie and finishes warm at the back of the mouth a second later. That same fat, in the butter and the chocolate both, blunts the heat, which is why a cookie made with Hot chile lands milder than you'd expect it to.

The cinnamon is the bridge. Take it out and the chile reads as an intruder; leave it in and the whole thing reads as one idea.

Draining the chile

Roasted chile is packed in its own liquid, and a third of a cup of it undrained can carry a couple of tablespoons of water into a dough that was balanced without it. So you drain it in a sieve, blot it on paper towel, and chop anything bigger than a chocolate chip so the heat ends up in every bite instead of every fourth one. It should feel damp rather than wet when it goes into the bowl.

If you're working from frozen chile, thaw it all the way and drain it harder, because thawed chile gives up more liquid than jarred does.

The same rule covers green chile cheddar biscuits and red chile brownies. Any dough or batter with a set flour-to-liquid ratio wants the chile dry before it goes in.

How hot to make them

Medium is the right default here. These are cookies you'll hand to people without warning them first, and the butter and the chocolate buffer the heat enough that Medium comes across as a warm finish rather than a surprise. Hot makes a cookie people notice and comment on, which is either the point or the problem depending on your table, and mixing the two half and half is the controllable middle.

Honestly, if you're only keeping one jar in the house, make it Medium. It does this job and it still does a pot of stew, and Hot is worth a second jar rather than a swap.

One thing worth knowing is that the same jar runs hotter some years than others, because NMSU notes that field stress raises the heat of even a mild cultivar. Taste a piece before you commit a whole batch to it.

Storing and freezing the dough

Baked cookies keep 4 to 5 days in an airtight container at room temperature, and a slice of bread in with them keeps them soft, which sounds like folklore and isn't.

Freeze the dough balls rather than the baked cookies. Roll them, freeze them solid on a tray, then bag them and bake straight from frozen at the same temperature with 2 to 3 minutes added. You get fresh cookies whenever you want them, and the dough is better for the rest.

Chilling the dough for an hour before it bakes also makes a noticeably better cookie: less spread, deeper flavor, a chewier center. If you've got the hour, take it. It's the only step in this recipe that pays you back for waiting.

What else to make

If these won you over, red chile brownies are the other half of the argument, and red chile apple pie is the one that surprises people most. On the savory side, green chile stew is where most of a freezer ends up anyway.

The chile comes in 16 oz jars, Medium or Hot, four ingredients in it, and one jar makes six batches of these. If you're baking in volume, it's also frozen in 5 lb bags. The rest of the recipe archive is free to read, and there's a printed New Mexico chile cookbook if you'd rather have it on the counter than on a phone.

If they spread flat

Almost everything that goes sideways with these comes down to water or temperature, and all of it is fixable on the next tray.

They spread into one sheet

Wet chile, butter that got too soft, or a warm pan will each do this. Drain the chile properly, use butter that's softened but still cool to the touch, and let the sheet cool between batches.

They came out cakey

That's either too much liquid or too much flour. Drain the chile, and measure the flour by spooning it into the cup rather than scooping, since scooping packs it.

They're dry and crumbly

They're overbaked. Pull them when the edges are set and the middles still look underdone, because they keep cooking on the sheet for those five minutes.

You can't taste the chile

The pieces are too big, so the heat shows up in every fourth bite instead of all of them. Chop it finer, or go up a heat level.

They taste odd rather than warm

The cinnamon probably got left out. It's what makes the chile read as intentional.

Common questions

Do green chile chocolate chip cookies taste spicy?

They finish warm rather than reading as spicy. The heat arrives a second after the sweetness, and the fat in the butter and chocolate blunts it, so Medium chile lands milder here than it would on eggs.

Do I need to drain the green chile?

Yes. Undrained chile adds enough water to make the cookies spread thin and turn cakey, so drain it in a sieve and blot it on paper towel.

How much green chile goes in a batch?

A third of a cup for about 20 cookies, chopped no larger than a chocolate chip so the heat is in every bite.

Why is there cinnamon in the recipe?

It bridges the chocolate and the chile. Without it the chile tastes out of place, and with it the cookie reads as one idea.

Can I freeze the dough?

Yes, and it's the better approach. Roll the balls, freeze them solid on a tray, bag them, and bake from frozen with 2 to 3 minutes added.

Why did my cookies come out flat?

Wet chile, butter that was too soft, or dough that went onto a hot pan. All three let the dough spread before it sets.

Can I leave out the pecans?

Yes. They add crunch and a little more fat, but the cookie works without them, and you may want slightly less bake time.

The short version

Drain the chile, keep the cinnamon, and chop the chile no bigger than a chocolate chip. Pull the cookies while the middles still look underdone, because they finish on the sheet. You're making about 20 at 350°F in 11 to 14 minutes, and if you'd rather bake a few at a time, freeze the rolled dough balls and add 2 to 3 minutes.

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